Edinburgh
Staring off in the Blue Blazer (2 Spittal Street), a traditional old street corner boozer in the shadows of the back of Edinburgh Castle. Old bench seating and old breweriana around the walls and a range of around 8 real ales on handpull. It is reputed that this was an old haunt of a young Rod Stewart, and like the ageing rock star, the Blazer is maybe not as glamorous as it once was, but is still a great old boozer. Around 50 single malts complement the beer range.
Turn left out of the Blue Blazer, back through the Grassmarket and up to the Bow Bar (80 West Bow) Probably my favourite pub in the city, a real unspoilt gem that probably hasn't changed much in a hundred years. Around 10 real ales, served via air pressure rather than handpull, powered by a water engine. They also have a decent range of bottled foreign beers and around 200 single malts, some of which are from distilleries that have been closed for years.
Cross the road and up the steps to High Street and the Royal Mile, turn right and a few hundred yards along on the left you will see the small alleyway that is Fleshmarket Close, made famous in Ian Rankin's Rebus novel of the same name. About halfway down Fleshmarket Close is, ironically, the The Halfway House, allegedly Edinburgh's smallest pub. A small triangular boozer with about 5 real ales, and does traditional Scottish grub like Cullen Skink and Haggis, Neeps and Tatties. Being so small means it can get very full very quickly, but if you get in at a quiet time it's a great place for a quiet contemplative pint.
Fall out of the front door of the Halfway House, continue down the stairs to the bottom of Fleshmarket Close, turn left and about 80 yards along is The Doric (15/16 Market Street), which has been a pub since the 17th Century and is another unspoilt gem (except for a large TV in one corner!) which specialises in good food and real ale, usually 3 or 4 hand pumps available.
Leave the Doric, turn right and head straight through Waverley Station and come out the other side into Princes Street. Cross straight over the road and into West Register Street to the Guildford Arms (1 West Register Street), quite possibly the most beautiful pub in the city. And if you don't believe me....
... enter via the old revolving door and under the ornate carved wooden ceiling you will find a range of around 10 real ales, mainly from Scottish breweries with one or two from further a field. Just take a while to take in your surroundings, they don't make pubs like this anymore.
So by now you're probably a bit tipsy and sliding towards last orders. So take a left along Princes Street, then left again down Leith Walk towards the Playhouse. Cross the road and go straight down Broughton Street, after about 400 yards on the right is the Cask & Barrel (115 Broughton Street). A good old spit and sawdust boozer and a great place to watch the footy on one of the numerous tellies with a pint from a selection of at least 10 - 12 real ales. Also a good selection of decent foreign bottled beers.
So the night is almost over, but if all that beer has made you hungry, go back up Broughton Street, turn left at the top past the Holiday Inn and follow the bend round to Giuliano's fish and chip shop for one of the best fish suppers anywhere in the city. And if you need a taxi to get back home or to your hotel, just head over the road to the taxi rank outside the Playhouse. Sorted!
Cheers!
